Sunday, August 28, 2011

Bayan Olgii

The most western province of Mongolia, the Kazakh region. I was lucky enough to get a gig visiting here in preparation for the Mongol Rally teams passing through, and to visit Mongol Rally grant receipients/potential recipients, and visit some other Mercy Corps projects. It was a flying visit, in multiple ways - being a good 4 days non-stop drive on "roads", Mercy Corps flies staff out here, and being peak tourist season, flights were hard to come by. I flew out super early on a Tuesday morning, and returned mid-morning the next Thursday. I flew out with a Reader's Digest writer who was hoping to grab a ride back to Ulaanbaatar, or at least for a few days, with a Mongol Rally team bringing a fire engine from England to Mongolia! I had a brilliant time with the local Mercy Corps officer, great english skills and a lovely lady. We visited Mongol Rally grant sites in the village closest to the Russian/Mongolian border crossing. A very poor place, no jobs, 70% unemployment, and no water...the ground water is frozen year-round, so the town has no way to access water - which means no showers, no running water for homes etc. Mercy Corps are going to provide grants for building a children's playground - to mobilise the community to work together, and provide something for the local kids; and a grant for a group of women to form a sewing cooperative, get some training in making and running a Kazakh handcraft business - idea is they'll market their products to travelers passing by in summer, fresh into Mongolia after spending numerous hours/days at the border crossing...should be gold mine (relatively speaking) for the locals.

Being the Kazakh region there are big differences, and also alot of similarities. Families live in gers just in summer, the Kazakh gers are huge - lots of space, but a terrible idea come winter, they are too big to heat! The gers are richly decorated with wonderful colourful embroidery. Kazakhs are known for their hospitality - a spread of snacks is constantly maintained around the table, in case visitors drop by.

This is where I got my first taste of "airag" - fermemed mare's milk. The highlight of a Mongolian's summer...and the dread of any visitor's! My stuff tasted like yoghurt at first, followed by a strong hit of something completely unpalatable - fermented, slightly alcoholic, your gut reaction being to spit it out and wash out your mouth. Of course that would be the worst possible thing to do at that moment, so I obligingly swallowed...I got through 4 sips...while my companions devoured their entire bowls happily. Although risking offending my hosts there was no way I was going to get any more of that stuff down..luckily they were more amused at my 8/9ths filled bowl then offended...phew.

A few of the stories of the people I visited in Bayan Olgii. These are from the Social Safety Nets project being funding by USAID. The project has three parts - building communities, building employable skills and creating jobs, and Psycho Social Support training - training designed by the Red Cross, all targeted at rural Mongolians struggling after losing their livelihood due to the dzud (terrible combination of dry, hot summer and extremely cold winter with heavy snow-fall, resulting in an overall loss of 25% of livestock in Mongolia...much higher percentages in some areas) and the global financial crisis (yes, impact even here)...........


SSN - Psycho Social Support Training Participant

Zoya



Unfortunately Zoya's story is not an uncommon one. Her family used to be herders in rural Bayan Olgii, in far-western Mongolia. Following the severe weather conditions of the 'dzud' they lost most of their livestock and were forced to pack up and move to the aimag centre.

This new lifestyle was hard for Zoya. High regional unemployment and a lack of employable skills made it difficult for her or her husband to earn any income. Although surrounded by other families Zoya felt lonely and isolated, desperately missing the life she knew.

In her search for employment and support opportunities Zoya heard about Mercy Corps' Psycho Social Support Training. Since enrolling her life has changed dramatically. She has many friends from her class and feels connected to her community. She now has a job at a local wool-processing factory, after attending a training course in this field.

Now equipped with the self-confidence to proudly share her story, Zoya is brimming with enthusiasm for the benefits the classes have bought her. Impressed by the change in his wife, Zoya's husband has attended a few of the classes - when his work schedule allows, as he has now also found a job after attending training on construction building.

After losing her livelihood and all she knew, Zoya has found hope and much more through Psycho Social Support training. Beyond the despair she was buried in following her loss, she can now see there are many benefits for her children living in town. Zoya and her husband are able to cope with the struggles of life while holding on to hope of a better future for their family.

"I'm really happy to learn new skills from the classes. I found it very useful to learn how to deal with stress and skills for communicating with other people." Zoya



Ger Kindergarten Project



As part of the Social Safety Nets project Mercy Corps has established ger kindergartens for children living in the disadvantaged communities targeted by the project.



Guljayiina is an assistant at the kindergarten created in Bayan Olgii. Eight months since classes began, she can see an amazing improvement in all aspects of the children's lives.

"At first the children only wanted to play noisy, outdoor games - mostly pretending to be farm animals or dogs. Now they play in groups with their friends, using toys or making drawings. Adapting the children to a schedule with times for eating, playing, sleeping and learning also proved challenging."


Before the kindergarten began, none of the children had spent any time in a structured environment, spending their time at home with their families. All children have come from disadvantaged households where money and a lack of knowledge meant that hygiene and access to healthy food was very limited.

Now the children are excited to perform their daily hygiene tasks - brushing their hair and teeth, washing their hands and faces. They also have learnt to enjoy eating the strange food - at first unidentifiable - featuring lots of vegetables and healthy dairy products. Before the children would not eat the food at kindergarten, not knowing what it was. Now when they eat meals at home they ask their parents where the vegetables are.

This is one of the best parts of the ger kindergarten program. It's not only the children attending the kindergarten who benefit, but entire families. Children take their newly gained knowledge and skills home, where they enthusiastically share with their brothers, sisters and parents.

Aisanbat, Kindergarten Attendee


Aisanbat, a 5-year-old girl in Bayan Olgii, is glad her parents were forced to leave their herding lifestyle in the countryside and move to the aimag centre, where they now live in one of the most disadvantaged areas of the town. She is glad because, if this had not happened, she would not be attending the Ger Kindergarten - established as part of the Social Safety Nets project.

Since attending Kindergarten she has learnt a lot about hygiene and healthy eating. And she has made many new friends. Living in the countryside she would have no opportunity for interaction with other children beyond her brother and sister. But now, when her mother suggested she stay home one day, Aisanbat protests:

"If I miss kindergarten my friend will cry!"


A large part of the curriculum in the kindergarten includes personal hygiene. Aisanbat has embraced the benefits of keeping herself clean - she now teaches her little sister how to care for herself as well: how to brush their hair, how to clean their hands and face, how to brush their teeth and so on.

Aisanbat's mother, Anargul, can see a huge difference in the development in her daughter when compared to her older brother who had no opportunity to attend kindergarten. Before kindergarten began both mother and daughter were a little scared - none of her children had spent a day away from her before! But eight months later, she is thrilled with the benefits and looking forward to sending her youngest daughter to kindergarten as well.


***PS: Word was out that the Mercy Corps representative was visiting the Kindergarten. These lovely older Kazakh gentleman had wandered down and strategically placed themselves where we coudln't miss them. Turns out their grand kids go to the Kindergarten, and love it, and tell their grandpas all about it. Problem is the kindergarten is only funded til September (as part of the SSN project), so they wanted to know if it would be continued.


Good news is it will be, the local education department has found some funding to take it through until a Canadian government funded project will build a permanent building and take it over.

This kind of spontaneous display is great proof that the projects are meeting genuine needs in the community, creating positive change...!

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